A quick Slalom through some minor islands with off lying rocks took us over to the Sound of Luing. This is a choke point for the tide and in less than ideal conditions one to be reckoned with. Today it was fine.

We shot between two lighthouses at 9 knots using our super duper AIS iPad when suddenly the iPad decided that it was too hot in the sun! It said “iPad needs to cooldown”

Fladda light – Sound of Luing

A quick check on the chartplotter – as well as the chart on the table – showed all was under control. The iPad was right. It was hot – 30 deg below decks.

As we approached the tiny island of Easdale – which many years ago was a major supplier of slate until it was engulfed by the sea – the wind kindly followed us around and our course change meant we did not have to adjust the sails.

There now followed a cracking sail up the north east side of Kerrera Island and even though we changed course through 60 deg the wind stayed just right for us to sail witout tacking. Must be this strange mountain weather!

Approaching Oban

Finished by a screaming in towards Oban marina. David’s hands had to be pried off the tiller before we could take the sails down.

Still light at Dunstaffnnage Marina Oban at 11.00 pm!

We hope this stunning weather will continue. Day off tomorrow to provision for the second leg of the trip – Oban to Wick.

Today’s Passage details

Ardfern to Oban: 30nm / 5.5 hrs

Sailed: 5 hrs / motored 0.5 hrs

Total distance run: 611 nm

The day was blisteringly hot and with zero wind. Spectacular mountains all around, the Paps of Jura in particular, meant that we had great views as we motored on.

We were due to pickup some northerly tide in the first half of the trip but it did not happen as planned.

The Paps of Jura

This meant that we were at risk of missing the tidal gate just north of the Corryvreken, an infamous whirlpool, we diverted for our alternative destination of Ardfern on Loch Craignish.

View into the Corryvreken - the whirlpool awaits!

As it turned out this was a good outcome. Arrived at 8pm and dashed to the local pub which and they fed us and we sampled our first pint of decent bitter since leaving England – Black Sheep Ale.

Ardfern - Loch Craignish

We heard our first cuckoo as we arrived but the bad news is that the midges are now out in force so we will be making midge defences out of an old mosquito net and knicker elastic.

Tomorrow (Friday May 25th) we are moving on to Oban via the Sound of Luing an 30nm trip.

Todays Passage Details

Port Ellen to Ardfern: 40nm / 8 hrs
Sail: 0 hrs motored: 8 hrs
Total distance since start : 581 nm

Left Glenarm in about 0.5 mile visibility at 11:30. Tide was due to turn at 13:00 so we needed to be on our way if we were to get to Port Ellen 50nm away.

Visibility reduced further once outside the marina so radar and AIS were used for most of the trip. We were mighty pleased to have the new wireless and iPad AIS system on board which gave us a clear picture on the chartploter of the shipping traffic.

We started sailing on a beam reach to cross the North Channel separation zone. Still in low visibility with little traffic about. The tide was with us now and we were making 7 knots under sail across the lanes.

As we reached the other side of the North Channel the mist cleared and suddenly the Mull of Kintyre was revealed in all it’s glory.

The Mull of Kintyre – a few minutes after the mist cleared

There then followed a glorious 20nm sail – using just the jib and 18 knots behind us across – the top of the North Channel from the Mull of Kintyre to Islay. The fog appeared ahead but it miraculously cleared as we made landfall.

Port Ellen

After we moored up David noticed a fishing boat unloading scallops. He sauntered over and came back with a big bag free of charge.

Dined on scallops and white wine tonight.

Recipe we used

1. Fry the scallops in the olive oil for about 1 min until golden, then flip them over and sprinkle over the garlic cloves and chopped fresh red chilli into the pan. Cook for about 1 min more, then squeeze over the juice of the lime.
2. Finish off with roughly chopped coriander and salt and pepper. Serve straight away.

Today’s Passage Stats

Glenarm to Port Ellen: 50nm / 8 hrs

Sailed: 5 hrs:

Total distance since start: 535 nm

Glenarm from seaward

Glenarm itself is a small village with two pubs and a tiny shop. Eating on board tonight!

We could clearly see Scotland now – the bottom end of the Mull of Galloway – about 20nm NE of us.

Scotland – the Mull of Kintrye 20 miles distant

We are now in at at a good jumping off point for our 50nm trip tomorrow. This will be across the North Channel to the Mull and then a further 25nm across to Port Ellen on Islay.

Todays Passage details

Total distance: 30nm in 5hrs

Sailed: 5hrs

Total distance run : 485nm

See the Trip Stats page for a chart of whole journey so far plus details for each days passage.

Last night we talked with two guys from a boat from Norway called Rainbow (a Forgus 35 and the previous owners of a Comfortina 38 – David and Bob’s previous make of boat); they have been cruising British waters for months and have visited 77 ports so far.

We sighted dolphins again as we motored in a flat calm. It was more like Greece than Northern Ireland!

David on dolphin watch!

Later in the afternoon we were crossed by a Wayfarer who seemed to be on a sponsored single handed trip. Looks to have come from Wales?

Entered Belfast lough through the Donagahadee sound – 2 cables (400m) wide and with 2knots of tide behind us. Which saved about an hour on the overall passage.

As we came around towards Bangor marina the wind filled in with 14 knots on the beam. A bit late as we only had 2 nm to run!

Bangor

A good day even without the wind and tomorrow we are off to Glenarm – 30nm further up the Antrim coast – which will be our jumping off point across the North Channel to Scotland.

Todays Passage Information

Ardglass to Bangor : 33nm / 7 hrs

Sailed: 1 hrs / Motored 6hrs

Total distance run: 455nm

See the Trip Stats page for a chart of journey so far plus details for each days passage.

Carlingford Lough was flat calm and a different world from the seething mass of water the day before.

St John's Lighthouse with the distant mountains of Mourne

A gentle sail on a fine reach took us up the coast towards Ardglass, some 20nm north of Carlingford Lough entrance. After 2 hrs the wind died and it was engine-on and motor sailing from then until the wind filled in for a final hour of sailing.

We arrived in Ardglass at 5pm at low water but a careful negotiation of the buoyed channel – there was an unexpected east cardinal which caused us to do a 360 whilst we rechecked the chart- saw us to a berth in the tiny marina.

Ardglass itself is a picturesque harbour; in a working fishing port sort of way. Not a lot in the town, being Sunday, so fish and chips tonight.

Tomorrow it's off to Bangor marina on Belfast Lough. An 11am start to catch the tide for a 40nm passage.

Passage Stats and Route

• Carlingford to Ardglass: 30nm
• Sailed: 3 hrs / Motored 4 hrs
• Total distance so far: 428nm

Carlingford Lough to Ardglass

See the Trip Stats page for a chart of journey so far plus details for each days passage

Yesterday was spent visiting the small tourist town of Carlingford. It is interesting as it has old number of mediaeval streets fortified ruins; some of which have been restored in a somewhat ‘Disneyfied’ manner.

Carlingford Abbey

We wandered around and found a lively pub with live music and the expected amount of Guinness.

Bread Making

Joe finally made bread on board using a premixed, but not kneaded, packet and the pressure cooker.

Note you don’t use the cooker at pressure just the heaviness of the pan and to avoid having to use up lots of scarce gas resources!

Another update tomorrow …

We ventured out, bound for Ardglass, but the prospect of 6hrs motoring with wind square on the nose soon had us securely tied up again!

Dawn Treader back in Carlingford Marina

The weather is due to blow this evening so we are here for the next 24 hrs at least.

Time to do jobs, read and explore. Carlingford is a pleasant little place, only 20 mins walk away, with shops, pubs and and old castle.

Joe will be making bread today on the boat. More on this tomorrow!

Malahide is lively place with a friendly yacht club an a large number of places to eat. We can recommend the Mexican restuarant on the front near the yacht club.

Malahide entrance is very shallow but we left at high water with plenty under keel – unlike the evening before – coming in with the depth alarm ringing in our ears.

A gentle reach for the whole day took us passed the Skerries Islands and across Dundalk bay. The sun shone and the wind was light (8-12knots on the beam).

Carlingford Lough entrance has big tides running in and out but we arrived at slack water and a calm sea so no problems. There is a big ship channel running up to Warrenpoint docks which made the navigation much easier.

Carlingford Lough and the Mountains of Mourne

Now in Carlingford marina – very quiet! The marina itself has a very narrow entrance with a cross tide but there is plenty of space to manoeuvre inside.

About to cook supper and plan for tomorrows trip to Ardglass.

Passage Stats

Time: 9 hrs

Distance run: 46nm

Sailed: 6hrs / Motored: 3hrs

Total distance since start: 398nm

New :have now add an overall Trip Statistics page.

Day off in Dun Laoghaire yesterday (Tue) due to howling winds outside. Lots of jobs todo on the boat including fixing the loo which was playing up and backfilling. A quick replacement of the ‘joker valve’ sorted it out.

Dublin Trip

Took the Dart train into Dublin centre and had lunch and a pint in the Temple Bar and saw the sights. Then returned and managed to gain entrance to the Royal Irish Yacht Club followed by an egg curry on board.

Today sees us moving on for Malahide. A small inlet about 13nm north of Dublin. Note showers in Dun Laoghaire marina the best so far!