After leaving Eyemouth, accompanied by the whole fishing fleet, we headed for Holy Island, also called Lindisfarne, in the Farne Islands. Which lays about 20 miles south of Eyemouth. We decided to anchor for lunch just off Lindisfarne castle. What a place, a great view of the castle as we as being accompanied by a large number of seals which decided to pop up all around us.

Seal off Lindisfarne Castle

It is noticable that there is far more wildlife on the east coast of the UK, than on the west coast. Especially the in the variety of bird life. Today we saw terns, puffins, razorbills, kittiwakes and guillemots. All feeding within a short distance of the boat.

As we sailed down there was a Coastguard rescue taking place. The VHF told us that a trip boat had hit a rock in the Farne Islands. No one was hurt but it must have ruined their day. In Scotland We almost nothing was heard on VHF of yachts or other boats getting into difficulty; there are far fewer boats and people up in Scotland we assume?

The wind came back after lunch and we were soon sailing past castle after castle. This coast is strewn with old castles. Bamburgh is very striking as well as the ruins of Dunstanburgh.

David with Bamburgh Castle on the shore

Dunstanburgh castle

Currently in Amble marina which calls itself the The Friendliest Marina. They could be right. Great service so far. The marina man help us moor as well as pointing out the best places to eat. Good clean showers plus a chandlery. We are here for another day due to bad weather so have time to explore.

Today’s passage stats and chart

Eyemouth to Amble: 45nm / 10 hrs (1 off at anchor)

Sailed: 4 hrs / motored: 5 hrs

Total distance since start: 1271 nm

Skara Brae

The trip took us to see Skara Brae, a 5000 year old large stone-built settlement, located on the Bay of Skaill on the west coast of Mainland, Orkney. It is older than Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids.

The Ring of Brodgar – Stenness, Mainland Island, Orkany

Tomorrow we plan to leave the Orkanys to travel across the Pentland Firth to Wick at the top east side of Scotland. More when we arrive tomorrow.

Leaving at 06:00 meant the wind had not started to get up and the 15nm mile trip up to Cape Wrath was made without incident – no huge waves! We did see a Minke whale which came up alongside the boat. Quite a sight even if we only saw its back and a fin.

Leaving Kinlochbervie at 06:00

We were not the only ones doing the trip to the Orkneys – four other yachts who had been holed up in Kinlochbervie left with us.

It was good that we left the day we did as the was a military exercise taking place around Cape Wrath next day with gunnery and bombing!

Cape Wrath

After rounding Cape Wrath it was a straightforward motor sail across to the Hoy Mouth 55 nm away. We were accompanied for a time by a large pod of Atlantic dolphins – they put on really good show – leaping out of the water again and again.

Arriving at the Hoy Mouth a bit earlier than we planned meant that we could hove-to just north of the Old Man of Hoy and have supper. We broke out the emergency food packs to save time before continuing on.

The Old Man of Hoy under the 1000ft cliffs

Arrived in Stromness marina at 22:30 after a 14 hr trip. Still daylight until midnight but we all crashed out after a quick cup of tea.

Day off tomorrow and we plan to get a bus to see some of Mainland Island.

We are over half way now and it’s all heading south from now on. Just hoping the wind stays in the north.

Passage Details

Kinlochbervie to Stromness: 70nm / 14 hrs

Sailed: 0 / Motored: 14 hrs

Total distance since start: 982R nm

The forecast was again NE F5/6 but with no sign of it then. As we sailed up towards Stoerhead the wind picked up and we were cracking along under full main at 7knots.

Bella Rosa alongside just before The Point of Stoer

Bella Rosa ( a HR37) who we have met a number of times during the trip – was fast coming up behind us. We decide a race was on so we trimmed the sails and all sat on the rail. Great fun if not exactly cruising!

Andrew and David hiking it out

After rounding the The Point of Stoer the sea built up and the wind increased. Moving further out to sea and then tacking back into the land soon has us in a more comfortable sea.

We then tacked up the coast passed the big sea cliffs of Handa island and then on into Loch Inchard. Kinlochbervie is tucked up on the top left hand side of the loch and provides complete shelter. We were told to expect a crowded pontoon but as it happened there were few yachts there; they must have all rounded Cape Wrath earlier today.

The weather forecast (NE F3/4) is good tomorrow for rounding Cape Wrath and going on to either Scrabster (mainland) or the Orkanys. We are leaving at 06:00 tomorrow morning.

Progress report tomorrow ( Sunday) evening. Bedtime now!

Today’s passage stats

Lochinver to Kinlochbervie: 30 nm / 7 hours

Sailed 5 hours

Lochinver pontoons – the sun just coming out after the blow

Spent the rest of the morning sorting out diesel. There is no fuel tomorrow and we did not fancy moving the boat in the strong winds so it had to be the containers. The Lochinver harbour office people were very helpful and even transported our full (heavy) containers back to the boat.

Joe made bread again and Andrew showed off his culinary skills making an apple crumble.

A Stormbound loaf

More tomorrow on our progress to make it to Kinlochbervie.

Note – if anyone wants to see more photos there is now a More Photos page with additional photos taken on the trip.

The Summer Isles

We could see fellow ‘RoundBritainers’, Bella Rosa on our AIS ahead of us as we rounded Rubha Mor point, having agreed to meet up with them in Lochinver.

The sail into Lochinver was rewarded with fantastic views of Suilven – a very striking conical shaped mountain of 731 m (2,398 ft). It is one of the most distinctive in Scotland. Lying in a remote area in the west of Sutherland, it rises almost vertically from a wilderness landscape of moorland, bogs and lochans an is the highest point in the county of Sutherland. We think it must have been the inspiration for Londons Gherkin tower.

Suilven as we approached LochInver

It’s currently starting to really blow outside but we are tucked up on a nice sheltered pontoon.

Looks like we will be sitting out tomorrow’s windy weather before pushing on the 26nm up to the jumping off point of Kinlochbervie on loch Inchard for Stromness in Orkany. We understand there is a bit of queue up there!

Todays passage stats

Ullapool to Lochinver: 26nm / 6 hrs

Sailed: 2 hrs / 4 hrs

Joe spent most of the morning repairing the spray-hood which has started to come apart. The stitching has rotted in multiple places.

A trip ashore resulted in new supplies plus a chance to visit a teashop. The first one of the whole trip – a welcome change from boat tea!

Tomorrow (Wed) we are joined by Andrew Maunder who will be with us until the end of June. Then it’s off to Lochinver early Thursday morning. Two days later we should be at the top to await the weather window for the 90 nm trip around Cape Wrath to Orkany.

Note the next blog update will be on Thursday.

On leaving we had a chance to look at some of the World War 2 buildings which remain around the edge of Loch Ewe.

Aultbea in Loch Ewe is where the Artic Convoys left from and is still a NATO base today. There was no sign of the Navy though – other than the huge mooring buoys and the precise buoyage.

We motored out of the loch against a big swell before turning east for Ullapool some 20 miles away. There then followed a lovely fine-reach in glorious weather and stunning scenery. It was remarkable that we saw almost no other boats.

Joe on deck entering Loch Broom – Ullapool

Ben Mor Coigach

We sailed right up to Ullapool and picked up one of the 8 visitors moorings. Ullapool is a small fishing and ferry town. Not a lot to see but it does have a good curry house, shops and pubs. Note there are no showers or onshore yacht facilities.

Ullapool

Joe then spent a hour on the first round of repairs to the spray hood which has started to come apart due to weak stitching.

Here to provision and pick up Andrew on Wednesday. Next stop is Loch Inver.

Today’s passage details

Aultbea (loch Ewe) to Ullapool: 30nm / 6 hrs

Sailed :5 hrs / motored 1 hr

Total distance since start: 847 nm

Loch Gairloch the evening before

The plan was to get going before the weather picked up as the forecast was for F5/6 NW again but when we left – accelerated by the boat inside us wanting to leave – all was calm.

A cracking sail was had as we left Loch Gairloch and headed up the coast. The wind was picking up but there was still a comfortable sea state. By the time we rounded the lighthouse just before the entrance to Loch Ewe the wind was back to F6 and there was a big breaking sea running.

Rubha Reidh – Lighthouse

After running for cover in Loch Ewe we arrived at our first planned anchorage only to find it lashed with squally winds. The next choice – Aultbea – was much better. Mainly because there was a free mooring buoy which we gratefully picked up.

Aultbea is a tiny place which boasts two hotels – one of which was recently the – whiskey hotel of the year – and not much else. The wind moderated and we dinghyed ashore to enjoy a couple of pints to celebrate the Jubilee.

Tomorrow we head off for Loch Broom and a small anchorage in the loch just north of Ullapool.

Today’s passage details

Loch Gairloch to Loch Ewe: 31 nm / 7 hours

Sailed: 5 hrs/ motored 2 hours

Total distance since start: 817 nm

Sailed off the mooring and out into the Sound of Raasey. We then tacked up the sound in F4 and all was well with world. As we got to the top of the Sound the wind increased to F6 with the swell from the Minch as well.

Loch Gairloch – only 10 miles!

On our way across we noticed the depth instrument reading between 3 and 6 metres? Having read about this in other peoples accounts that submarines like to stalk yachts in the Sound of Rassey we where ready for one to surface at any moment.

A long 10 nm tack took us across a lively confused sea to the entrance of Loch Gairloch where we expected to find more sheltered conditions. No chance!

It was blowing just as hard, 28 knots most of the time in the loch, just it had been out at sea!

We were aiming for a small harbour called Flowerdale – in Loch Gairloch – which was sheltered from the north. When we arrived it was wonderfully sheltered and we came alongside a welcoming Dutch boat on the pontoon.

We are now licking our wounds and eating a couple of steaks with red wine. A good days sail.

Off to Loch Ewe tomorrow – 30nm to windward again!

Todays Passage stats

Portree to Loch Gairloch: 40 nm / 7 hrs

Sailed: 7 hrs / Motored: 10 mins

Total distance since start: 786nm